A–C

Armscye
The armhole opening of a garment; critical to fit and mobility in tailored jackets and coats.

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Appliqué

Decorative fabric motifs hand- or machine-applied to a base fabric, often used in couture embellishment.

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Atelier
A fashion workshop or studio, traditionally associated with couture garment production.

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Backstitch
A strong hand stitch used for seams and repairs.

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Basting
Temporary stitching used to hold pieces together during fitting or construction.

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Batiste

A lightweight, finely woven fabric made from cotton or blends; often used for linings and heirloom garments.

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Bias
The 45-degree angle to the fabric grain; bias-cut garments drape fluidly and stretch naturally.

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Binding
A fabric strip used to finish raw edges neatly, often visible as a design detail.

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Blind Hem Stitch
A stitch that secures hems invisibly from the right side of the garment.

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Bobbin
A small spool that holds the lower thread in a sewing machine.

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Boning
Rigid or semi-rigid strips inserted into garments for structure, commonly used in couture and bodices.

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Broadcloth

A tightly woven plain-weave fabric, commonly cotton; smooth and durable for shirts and dresses.

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Button Stance
The vertical position of buttons on a jacket or coat front; crucial in men’s tailoring proportions.

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Canvas (Tailoring)
A structured inner layer (usually horsehair or wool blend) used in tailored jackets to shape the chest and lapel.

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Canvas

A heavy, durable plain-weave fabric, typically cotton or linen; used for bags, jackets, and upholstery.

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Chain Stitch
A looping stitch that resembles chains; decorative or functional.

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Chest Piece
Layered canvas and padding shaping the chest of a jacket.

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​​Chambray
A lightweight woven fabric with a colored warp and white weft, resembling denim but much lighter.

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Chiffon
A sheer, lightweight fabric with a slightly rough feel; usually silk, polyester, or nylon.

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Crepe
A fabric with a crinkled or pebbled surface; available in wool, silk, rayon, and synthetics.

 

Couture
High-level garment construction emphasizing handwork, precision, and custom fit.

 

 

 

D–F

Dart
A wedge-shaped fold stitched into fabric to create shape over curves.

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Denim

A sturdy twill-weave cotton fabric characterized by diagonal ribs.

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Double-Breasted
A jacket style with overlapping fronts and two columns of buttons, common in men’s tailoring.

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Drape
How fabric hangs and moves on the body.

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Dress Form
A mannequin used for fitting garments during construction.

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Ease
Extra fabric added for comfort and movement; distinct from design ease.

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Embroidery (Couture)

Hand- or machine-worked decorative stitching used as surface design or embellishment.

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Fabric Shears
Large scissors specifically designed for cutting fabric.

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Facing
A fabric piece that finishes raw edges at openings such as necklines or fronts.

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Fitting (Bespoke)

A staged evaluation of garment fit, often involving multiple iterations.

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Flannel
A soft woven fabric with a brushed surface; commonly cotton or wool.

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Floating Canvas

Canvas that is not fused, allowing the garment to move naturally.

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French Seam
A couture seam finish that encloses raw edges for a clean interior.

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Full Canvas
A jacket construction method where canvas runs from shoulder to hem, offering superior shape and longevity.

 

 

G–I

Gabardine
A tightly woven twill fabric often used in suits and trousers.

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Gorge

The point where the lapel meets the collar.

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Grading
The process of resizing a sewing pattern while maintaining proportions.

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Grainline
The direction of warp threads; correct alignment is essential for proper fit and drape.

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Hand (of Fabric)
The tactile feel of a fabric.

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Hand-Felled Seam
A hand-finished seam sewn flat for durability and elegance.

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Interfacing
Material used to reinforce fabric; may be fusible or sew-in.

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Interlining
A hidden layer added for warmth, structure, or shaping.

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Invisible Finish
A couture technique where stitches are hidden from the garment exterior.

 

 

J–L

Jersey
A knit fabric with natural stretch; commonly used for T-shirts and dresses.

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Jetted Pocket
A pocket finished with narrow fabric strips (welts); common in tailored jackets and trousers.

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Lapel
The folded front edge of a jacket or coat.

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Linen
A natural fiber fabric made from flax; breathable, strong, and prone to wrinkling.

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Lining
An inner fabric layer that improves comfort and garment finish.

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Lockstitch
A standard machine stitch formed by interlocking top and bobbin threads.

 

 

M–O

 

Made-to-Measure

Garments produced from a base pattern adjusted to a client’s measurements.

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Measuring Tape
A flexible tape used for taking body and garment measurements.

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Moulage

The technique of draping fabric directly on a dress form to create patterns.

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Muslin (Toile)
A test garment made to refine fit before cutting final fabric.

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Nap
The raised surface of fabrics like velvet or corduroy; affects cutting layout.

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Needle Plate
The metal plate under the presser foot with seam guides.

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Notches
Pattern markings that help align pieces during construction.

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Organza

A crisp, sheer fabric, often silk or polyester, used for structure and overlays.

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Overlocking (Serging)
A stitch that trims and finishes raw edges simultaneously.

 

 

P–R

Pad Stitching
Hand stitching used to attach canvas to lapels and shape them in tailored jackets.

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Placket
A finished opening for buttons or zippers, common in shirts and trousers.

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Poplin
A smooth plain-weave fabric with a fine rib; widely used in shirts and dresses.

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Presser Foot
The part of the machine that holds fabric in place while sewing.

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Pressing
Setting seams with controlled heat and steam rather than sliding the iron.

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Princess Seam
A vertical seam that shapes garments without darts; frequently used in couture.

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Roll Line
The line where a lapel naturally folds back.

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Rotary Cutter
A rolling blade tool used with a cutting mat for precise cutting.

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Running Stitch
A simple hand stitch used for gathering or basting.

 

 

 

S–T

Seam Allowance
The fabric between the seam line and the raw edge.

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Seam Ripper
A small tool used to remove stitches.

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Selvage
The finished fabric edge that prevents fraying.

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Serger (Overlocker)

A machine that trims, sews, and finishes seams simultaneously.

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Silk
A natural protein fiber known for its luster and smooth feel.

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Sleeve Pitch

The angle at which a sleeve is set; critical for comfort and posture alignment.

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Stay Stitching
Stitching applied to prevent stretching along curved edges.

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Straight Stitch

A basic forward stitch used for most seams.

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Structured Shoulder
A tailored shoulder shape created using padding, canvas, and precise pressing.

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Tailoring
The craft of constructing structured garments—especially jackets, coats, and trousers—with precise fit.

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Tailor’s Chalk

A marking tool used to transfer pattern markings onto fabric.

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Thread Tracing

Temporary hand stitching used to mark seam lines and balance points.

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Ticket Pocket

A small pocket above the main pocket on tailored jackets.

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Topstitching
Visible stitching used decoratively or to reinforce seams.

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Twill
A weave structure with diagonal lines; examples include denim and gabardine.

 

 

 

U–W

Underlining
A layer of fabric sewn to the main fabric for added body or opacity.

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Understitching
Stitching that keeps facings or linings rolled neatly to the inside.

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Vent
A slit at the back or sides of jackets or coats for movement.

 

Welt Pocket
A pocket with a finished opening reinforced by a welt.

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Waist Suppression
The inward shaping at the waist of a tailored jacket.

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Wool
A natural fiber from sheep; used for suiting, coats, and knits.

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Yoke
A fitted section that supports or shapes a garment, often at shoulders or waist.

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Zigzag Stitch
A stitch used to finish raw edges or allow stretch in seams.