Sourcing References
Here are some of my best recommendations for fabric sourcing.
Made famous thanks to Project Runway, this three floor store in what's left of the garment district in Manhattan is a stitchers dream. They have every fabric you can think of plus accessories and notions. Online is not the same as in store but still good.
I am on the mailing list for this NYC establishment and love the selections they send me. Of the moment remnants from the top designers. Fantastic opportunities but sometimes limited yardage. Good to move fast.
Fish leathers are making a comeback and ICTYOS is leading the charge with a sensational color palette and a variety of fish species that produces intricate and distinctive patterns. The skins are relatively small so they are more accommodating of garment accents (collars, pockets) or small accessories. Most fish leather (like salmon) is pretty supple and can be sewn on a home machine. I know they attend trade shows in the US but I am unaware of who might distribute their skins in the States.
This silk shop is really for professionals but the minimum purchase is 5 yards, so I am including it here. Their show room is a marvel as they have pretty much every solid color and weave combination under the moon. I highly recommend for solids. Less a fan of their patterns but patterns in general are tricky. So if you regularly use silk, you want to check these guys out. The prices are great.
If you can't make it to Paris, Mendel Goldberg has plenty of gorgeous tweeds that I suspect come from Mahlia Kent, as well as many other stupendous couture fabrics. You will pay couture prices here - plenty of fabrics over $100 a yard but they curate a constantly updated gorgeous collection.
There aren't a lot of reasons to travel to Lynn, MA, a small city east of Boston, but fabric-emporium Zimmon's is a good one. Boasting over 50,000 fabric choices and over 1M yards of inventory, there is no shortage of choice. While technically an upholstery fabric store, many of the fabrics - I am thinking wools and silks - are suitable for clothing.
If you happen to be in Paris or can get there soon, check out the Mahlia Kent storefront behind the Bastille Opera house. Mahlia Kent is famous for making the classic Channel wovens. But they have so much more. Smaller cut remnants are available on a day to day basis and at 15 euros a meter are a real steal. A must check out if you are in town.
I was winding my way around the old city in Rome when I happened on this second generation family owned shop, brimming with designer dead stock, some of which they make themselves at their own mills. Italy does family businesses well, and this is case in point. I procured cloth from Italian fabric heroes like Loro Piana and Missoni while owner and fashion designer Pierolorenzo regaled me with stories of glitterati he'd met and dressed.
If you live or are travelling to Maine and you like bargain basement, vintage finds, you must check out the Scarborough-based RENY'S, a local Maine chain of discount stores. Scarborough RENY'S has a whole section of bolts of dead stock fabric including some recognizable 80s favourites like wide whale cords embroidered with bees or lobsters. They offer a lot to sift through and you are sure to find some golden fabric nuggets. (in-store only)
B&J is very tidy and well run. Rather than walls of bolts of fabric, they offer racks of hanging samples that they will track down in the back and then cut for you. They have an excellent selection of Liberty fabrics as well as many other high end options. The service is incredibly professional - and they are excellent about same day shipments if you are out of town and find yourself in a bind. I highly recommend.